Chinese Crabs - a lifestyle

2023.10.20

The crabs are served on the family dinner table.

As Grandma lifts the lid of the steam pot, hot air soars up like bees finally released from a hive. When the air fades out, however, the stage is left to the crabs, which are gathered into a pyramid at the centre of the deep pot.

The stack of shells immediately becomes the spot of the brightest colours on the whole table, almost lighting up the the dull, brown meat and fish. The bright orange and red jump straight into the eyes, triggering appetite and the "grumbling" of the stomach. The crabs are wrapped around tightly by a traditional Chinese plant Ma Lian, which coats the crabs with a fresh smell of woods and nature.

This is not the fun part yet. I slowly peel off the shell, scoop a full spoonful of juicy, colourful crab roe (believe me, it is very yummy), dip it into the vinegar specially designed for Chinese crabs, and welcome the whole thing into my wide open mouth. It is simply so satisfying to feel it crushing into granules in between my teeth and on my tongue. With its richness and the slight sweetness, it can easily be the best out of all of the amazing cuisines on the table. Every scoop and dig into the shell invites me to eat more, until the crab is fully empty with only a see-through shell. Some people prefer to crunch the crab legs and meat together, sucking up all of the juicy and yummy bits of it. 

If you don't know, the crunches, sips, cracks, and gnaws are the usual background music of our family table gossips and conversations. It all transforms into little fragments of joy on an ordinary night at home.

Now, this is what Chinese people call "the culture on our tongues (舌尖上的文化)". Chinese crabs are not just a plate of food served on tables. It is a culture and a lifestyle.